My family for the win...

I just got a couple emails from my dad with pictures of what my family's been up to since I've been gone so I think I'll use this post as a tribute to how absolutely absurd my family is. I always joke that my mom's only purpose in life is to embarrass me but I think these photos are just proof that I'm right. Only 6 more days until we reunite...yikes!



Her new boyfriend...



WHY?!



Daniela apparently decided to join in on the fun...




They're besties.



Dumbest cat in the entire world.



DEFINITELY framing this.




Admittedly adorable

That time I vaccinated 75 cattle...

As I was writing an email to my friend Ally today, I realized that I never got to tell the story of the absurdity from my first weekend in South Africa. Looking back now, I think that that first weekend really set the tone of what would be some of the most challenging, eye-opening, and surprising 9 weeks of my life.

My first weekend here, my friend Isabelle invited me and Simone to a farm near the Waterberg Mountain region in the rural province of Limpopo, about two hours away from Pretoria. Isabelle had been invited the day before at, of all places, her doctor's appointment. She and the doctor, Dr. Saaijman (pronounced Simon), had gotten to talking about horses and vaccinations etc. and Isabelle had explained how she once interned for a vet at home in Germany. Next thing you know, Dr. Saaijman invites Isabelle to his farm for the weekend to help him vaccinate 75 of his cattle. Of course, when Isabelle first approached me and Simone about it, we thought she was just being that weirdo German. Then, realizing that we had nothing better to do, we decided to tag along with the intention that we were just going to relax and take it easy and not actually get our hands dirty. After all, both Simone and I had arrived Thursday night and we were still getting accustomed to the time difference. Boy were we wrong.

We met Dr. Saaijman at his office Saturday morning and three hours later, Simone, Isabelle and I were all covered in blood with an entire assembly line worked out: Isabelle would attach the needle to the syringe, Simone would fill up the syringe, and I would hand the syringe to Dr. Saaijman. But that was nothing in comparison to what Dr. Saaijman was doing: he would trap the little heifers in a contraption like so:



Then, he would stick a needle in trying to find a vein. But in order to tame the heifer, he would have his farm hands insert this awful looking nostril clamp to keep the cow's head stable and another farm hand insert this electric, foot-long rod into the cow's butt that sends a shock through the cow so that it keeps still...yikes! It was quite a process to say the least. And if that wasn't bad enough, the blood would usually spurt out all over Dr. Saaijman when he finally found a vein and if the needle ever got clogged, he (without hesitation) just sucked in the blood from the needle and continued prodding for a vein. After 4 hours of vaccinating, Dr. Saaijman looked like an axe murderer: His pants were completely drenched with blood and his mouth and face had dried red splotches all over the place. It was DISGUSTING. It was an exhausting 4 hour process. Here's what Isabelle and Simone looked like by the end:



Now if only I had a picture of what Dr. Saaijman looked like...

Later that night, we went to Dr. Saaijman's other beautiful farm that was at least several thousand acres where we had our first braai (or bbq) in SA, one of many more to come in the following nine weeks. That was also my first time tasting pap, which is this disgusting carbohydrate that's like cream of wheat on crack and way less tasty. As every South African describes it, it's the "fuel of Africa" because it's really dense, really filling, really cheap, and really easy to make. Three bites of it and I was full. The worst part is that Dr. Saaijman insisted quite emphatically that we finish it. Not wanting to be a rude guest, I obliged. Needless to say, I never had pap again.

The next morning, we went on a three hour tour of Dr. Saaijman's property where he proceeded to tell us a story of every single rock and plant (not exaggerating). This man knew every square inch of that land like the back of his hand. I've never seen someone so proud of his property. Even though the tour dragged on quite a bit, I enjoyed standing in the back of his 1970s land rover thinking "I'm definitely not in America right now" and just looking out over the thousands of miles of beautiful farmland surrounding us. The only bad part was when I got smacked in the forehead by a branch that I swear came out of the middle of nowhere...

I realized after I got home how unique and once-in-a-lifetime that experience was. I think it really taught me that the best way to have fun here or anywhere in the world for that matter is to be spontaneous and to do things and go places that force you to leave your comfort zone. After all, when will I ever be in Limpopo vaccinating 75 cattle again?



A supremely unattractive picture of Simone, Me, and Isabelle after a long day's work



All the little heifers lined up. How comfortable!



Dr. Saaijman's farm hands



Another supremely unattractive picture of the girls with Dr. Saaijman at his house.

10 days

Don't get me wrong. I've been having an unreal time in South Africa this summer. But as I was casually surfing the web tonight, I came across this one newly updated website that really made me miss home:

http://www.thebiggchill.com/

For people back home in LA, you'll know where to find me the Saturday night I get home.

Some quick updates from Idasa (since yes, I actually have been doing work contrary to what my updates might suggest):
1. Water pipe exploded on all of finance's documents and flooded the storage room today. No running water. Great way to start the morning.
2. Got a new computer that turns on in under 20 minuets. Big improvement, no joke.
3. Finally finished my Government of National Unity Zimbabwe Newsletter for the month of July. Basically had to go through every single news article written about Zimbabwe and chart the progress being made on the Global Political Agreement.
4. I've been helping to write and edit this report for the Norwegian government on the impact of targeted sanctions on Zimbabwe and our recommendations
5. Have gotten into a bad habit of taking 2 hour lunch breaks. Oh well.
6. Got perfectly described by my friend Amy at work today: "Some people are intellectual, but just socially inept."
7. Got to have a conference call with the Director of the Research and Advocacy Unit in Zimbabwe about his opinion of sanctions. He made a brilliant recommendation: to gauge Zim's commitment to the GPA, see if ZANU-PF is willing to have an independent 24 hour FM radio broadcast.

Anyways, the idea of being back home in 10 days is too much to think about. So instead of trying to do a serious reflection on my trip so far, I'll just provide you with an assortment of fun photos from some of my weekend excursions and such. Sorry that they're all out of order. Enjoy!


This is a sign 2 blocks away from my house. Naturally, I live in the neighborhood right next to Menlopark...again. Ironic?



Night out in Maputo, Mozambique!!


Mozambique


Durban Part 2


Mine and simone's camera war at the park in Durban.


She refused to put down the muffin.


It follows me everywhere...even to the shores of Durban.

Just when you thought I couldn't get dumber...

I electrocuted myself yesterday. Just flat out walked into an electric fence. Who even thought that those things actually worked? And all of it just to take a picture of a stupid mountain. So not worth it. I was tingling for about 5 minutes afterwards.

Luckily my friend Simone was there to document the aftermath of my shock.

The Strange Alchemy of Life and Law

This weekend, I started reading Justice Albie Sachs' book The Strange Alchemy of Life and Law. I'm absolutely in love with it and it's no surprise, considering that the first line of the preface is: "This book should be of huge interest to the international judicial community and everyone else who is interested in justice."

Albie Sachs is an absolutely brilliant, courageous, and remarkable individual. He's been through it all, having been detained in solitary confinement, tortured by sleep deprivation, exiled and eventually blown up by a car bomb which cost him his right arm and the sight of an eye...all ironically because of his dedication to justice and commitment to protecting human dignity and rights in South Africa. After serving on the drafting committee for the post-apartheid Constitution, Sachs was appointed by President Mandela to be a member of the country's first Constitutional Court. His book is about his experience with the Court and how his extraordinary life has influenced his approach to the cases before him, and his views on the nature of justice and its achievement through law. To quote directly from the inside cover of the book, "Rejecting purely formal notions of the judicial role he shows how both reason and passion are required for law to work in the service of justice."

I thought for this post that I would quote some of the most meaningful passages from the book thus far. I'm only 100 pages in but already, Sachs has seriously impacted my thoughts about justice, equality, human dignity, and most importantly, forgiveness.

"Years later when I was writing about the experience of being the target of a car bomb and losing an arm, I found myself repeatedly using the phrase 'and that would be my soft vengeance': if the person accused in a Mozambique Court of being responsible for placing the bomb in my car is put on trial and the evidence is insufficient and his is acquitted - I wrote - that will be my soft vengeance, because we will be living under the rule of law. To gain freedom was a much more powerful vengeance than to impose solitary confinement and torture on the people who done these things to us" (14-15).


"To those who would trivialize the judicial process, representing it as a flabby subjective reponse dressed up in the false guise of objectivity, I offer the following: while one should always be sceptical about the law's pretensions, one should never be cynical about the law's possibilities" (50).

The following quotes are form Sachs' minority opinion in the Jordan case in which the Court dealt with the constitutionality of a law that penalised the offering of sex for reward. Ultimately, the Court majority decided that this was a question of policy to be determined by the legislature and did not raise an issue of fundamental constitutional rights. But here's Justice Sachs (joined by Justice Kate O'Regan's) opinion on why this case involved constitutional rights, namely gender equality rights, and why the statute discriminated unfairly against women by identifying as candidates for prosecution females rather than males:

"The distinctions is, indeed, one which for years has been espoused both as a matter of law and social practice. The female prostitute has been the social outcast, the male patron has been accepted or ignored. She is visible and denounced, her existence tainted by her activity. He is faceless, a mere ingredient in her offence rather than a criminal in his own right, who returns to respectability after the encounter...Thus, a man visiting a prostitute is not considered by many to have acted in a morally reprehensible fashion. A woman who is a prostitute is considered by most to be beyond the pale" (61-62).

"The salient feature of the differentiation in the present matter is that it tracks and reinforces in a profound way double standards regarding the expression of male and female sexuality. The differential impact is accordingly not accidental, just as the failure of the authorities to prosecute male customers as accomplices is entirely unsurprising. They both stem from the same defect in our justice system which would hold women to one standard of conduct and men to another" (62).

Upon meeting Henri, a former Captain in the South African Defence Force, who was involved with planning Justice Sachs' car bombing, including taking photos and preparing a dossier for the persons who were ultimately to place the bomb in the car:

"Henri, normally if someone comes to my office, when I say goodbye I shake that person's hand, but I can't shake your hand. I can't now. Go to the Truth Commission, tell your story, help the country, do something for South Africa and then perhaps we can meet again" (65).

Henri and Sachs did meet again at a party. And this time, Justice Sachs openly shook Henri's hand.

In the section about the Truth and Reconciliation Commission:
"Dialogue is the foundation of repair. The dignity that goes with dialogue is the basis for achieving common citizenship. It is the equality of voice that marks a decisive start, the beginning of a sense of shared morality and responsibility" (85).

The long awaited World Cup post! (sorry this is so late)

Yes, the rumors are true. Not only did I go to the epic U.S. vs. Algeria game, but thanks to my good friend Sir William Lindemann, I had the distinct privilege of attending the July 11 World Cup Final!!! I was obviously rooting for Spain cause they have the more attractive team (I clearly base my allegiance on looks). But (ir)regardless (hi simone!!!), they were the best seats I've ever had to any sporting event ever, let alone the WORLD CUP. I sat directly next to the players' tunnel (as in I could physically touch the cover of the tunnel), about 15 rows up. Not to mention, I was sitting next to Xabi Alonso's agent, who got a fat, sweaty hug from Xabi as he walked up the steps to receive the trophy... don't worry, Xabi was eyeing me the whole time.

Unfortunately, I didn't get to see Shakira perform Waka Waka becaues OF COURSE the designated train from Pretoria to Johannesburg was an hour late...duh. But I did get to see Mandela make his round on a golf cart which was obviously a highlight for me. Another highlight that you guys probably didn't get to see on tv was a guy who ran on the field while they were displaying the trophy and attempted to throw a hat on top of the trophy but was ultimately tackled to the floor. Amidst the tackle though, the security guards knocked the trophy stand and it nearly fell over.

Anyways, this post is basically dedicated to my friends Elyse Galles and Omar Chehabi, the biggest soccer and Fernando Torres fans I know. Thought of you both the entire time.






ABOUT TIME!!!


THE GOAL


Torres the wimp (notice how NO ONE is paying attention to him):


Boo. Hoo.



The back of Torres' head as he "limped" up the aisle directly next to me to go claim the trophy:


Just yes.

Reflections

Since most of my blog posts have been about my weekend adventures, I thought I would change things up a bit and share some of my reflections from the 7 weeks I've been here.

It's really difficult to talk about privilege without acting like "that" American tourist who travels to some African country to find herself and suddenly discovers how lucky she is and therefore decides to dedicate her entire life to helping others/saving the world/curing AIDS/etc. You all probably know the type of people I'm referring to.

But for the most part, that hasn't been my experience. Living in Pretoria has not been especially challenging now that I actually think about it. While there's no organized form of public transportation and it's not safe to walk at night or in certain areas of the city, I still live in a very nice and privileged neighborhood with a cell phone, unlimited internet, food, a comfy bed, TV, a security patrol system, etc. I haven't been challenged socially either. Everyone at Idasa is incredibly welcoming and I of course managed to find a group of predominantly American girlfriends who all speak English and who I can relate to very easily. Not to mention, my nickname is "baby jew" and/or "baby jesus" depending on who you talk to. Enough said.

And while my experience at Idasa has exposed me to the myriad challenges that Southern Africa faces, it hasn't made me want to dedicate my entire life to working for an NGO or a charitable organization. I probably will ultimately pursue a career devoted to promoting and protecting basic human rights, but I don't necessarily feel the need to shed my privilege or my current lifestyle because of some overwhelming inner guilt that arose from being surrounded by others less fortunate than myself (that probably sounds selfish but oh well).

This past weekend, I went to Maputo, Mozambique (I'll post pictures in an upcoming post). I really didn't know what to expect because just like most other Americans, I grew up with this perception of the entire continent of Africa as one giant underdeveloped, poverty-stricken place. Obviously, my extensive studies this year and my time in South Africa thus far has completely disproved that erroneous perception. But in comparison to SA, Mozambique would definitely be a more "genuine" African experience if you adhere to the Orientalist stereotype . Cities and roads developed haphazardly, shanty towns left and right, disjointed neighborhoods of thatched huts, trash piles lining the streets, kids playing with flat soccer balls in abandoned lots (just like the world cup ads) etc. But for some reason, I became numb to the wealth inequality. I don't know if numb is the right word but I stopped focusing on the wrong and starting appreciating what my South African friend Zarina called the "beautiful filth." The fact that these impoverished people have managed to generate such a close and welcoming community with so little is admirable. And instead of taking pity on them and insisting that we come in with our bulldozers or with our superior technology and "fix" their society made me reevaluate development theorist George Rist's definition of development: " 'Development' consists of a set of practices, sometimes appearing to conflict with one another, which require - for the reproduction of society - the general transformation and destruction of the natural environment and of social relations. Its aim is to increase the production of commodities (goods and services) geared, by way of exchange, to effective demand." Too often we think of the transofrmative impact of development and not the destructive element. I do believe that the West has something to offer Africa. But I also believe that development is something organic and that implementing or even suggesting our innovations to other societies does not necessarily "improve" a society.

Finally, on a less philosophical note, my experience at the exit border from Mozambique really got me thinking. If you're white and you pull up in your car with a foreign license plate, you get surrounded by scores of men offering to get your passport stamped ahead of the cue for the small price of 50 rand, or 7 bucks. Me and my mini-Supreme Court Justice self obviously decided to decline their offer and wait in the hot and admittedly stinky cue with the other hundred plus people. Needless to say, my friends and I were the only white people in line and were getting quite a few confused stares. Naturally, I gave myself a pat on the back for doing the "moral and ethical" thing. But my friend Zarina brought up a good point which is: if the whole system is corrupt, why not play into it? And she's right to some extent. If the majority of the Mozambican government, including all of border control, is corrupt and completely inefficient, how does your standing in line versus giving your passport to these men really make a difference? Doesn't there need to be a structural overhaul in the system to crackdown on corruption? Just some food for thought if you're a mini-optimist like me.